Monday, July 31, 2023

Vacation in Spain - Toledo, a paradise for photographers!

On my return from vacation in Spain, I brought back a box of marzipan (mazapán) for my friends and coworkers. While having a bite, many would ask, what is marzipan? And that would be a good starting point to talk about Toledo, the former capital of Spain with a history of more than 2000 years. A daytrip to Toledo was day 4 of our vacation. Toledo was a 35-minute train drive from Madrid. We lived in the Sol area in Madrid - a quick 3 minutes’ walk from our stay to catch the local train to reach the main station.


 We grabbed our breakfast and settled on the train bound for Toledo. Very convenient and frequent trains ran between these two cities - we got to see the beautiful views of Spanish countryside. 

 Our Tour Guide was right there when the train reached the beautiful Toledo station with amazing facade. The fact that Toledo, the entire city itself has been declared a national monument and since millions of tourists flock to this ancient city, it's not easy to be a professional guide without going through the rigorous academic process. The guides can narrate every monument with very high percentage of data accuracy. The first look of the city as one steps out of train provides a scene straight from the History Channel. As our cab took turns in and out through Toledo streets, each panorama provided a unique view of the city. On three sides, Tagus River embraced and probably provided the security from enemy in old times. We stopped at a vista point and our guide clicked a family portrait against the backdrop of the Cathedral, the old city, and the river.


The Fresco!!!

craftsmanship!



A little bit on history as a UNESCO World Heritage Site - Toledo boasts a rich history dating back to ancient times, with evidence of human settlement found as far back as the Bronze Age. Over the centuries, it served as a prominent city under various civilizations, including the Romans, Visigoths, Muslims, and Christians. Its strategic location on a hill overlooking the Tagus River made it a vital center of commerce, culture, and religion. 

At current times, the city allowed only limited vehicles into the old city to preserve its charm, architecture and culture. Walking was the primary mode of transportation to see most of the old city. For centuries, Christians, Muslims, and Jews enjoyed this city together. We saw the Synagogue with Moorish architecture which was later converted to a church. The city can distinctly be separated into three sections - Jewish, Catholic and Muslim. 

 The Toledo Cathedral, also known as the Primate Cathedral of Saint Mary of Toledo (Catedral Primada Santa María de Toledo), was spectacular, with gold and woodwork. This is one of the most iconic landmarks in Toledo, Spain, and one of the most famous cathedrals in the world. 

Construction of Toledo Cathedral began in 1226 during the reign of King Ferdinand III of Castile and was completed in 1493. It is a prime example of Spanish Gothic architecture, although it also incorporates elements of Mudejar, Renaissance, and Baroque styles due to the lengthy construction period. The cathedral houses an impressive collection of religious artworks, including paintings, sculptures, and altarpieces by renowned artists such as El Greco, Titian, Velázquez, and Goya. One of its most famous artworks is El Greco's "The Disrobing of Christ" (also known as "El Expolio"), which is located in the Sacristy. The Cathedral also houses masterpieces of Francisco de Goya, Titian, Peter Paul Rubens, Diego Velázquez, Caravaggio, Giovanni Bellini, and of course El Greco on the walls.


 Talking of El Greco, whose real name was Doménikos Theotokópoulos, was a renowned painter of the Spanish Renaissance. He was born in Crete in 1541, which was then part of the Republic of Venice, and later moved to Toledo, Spain, where he spent much of his life and produced some of his most famous works. As I mentioned earlier, Toledo was a melting pot of cultures, with Christians, Muslims, and Jews coexisting, influencing El Greco's art with their diverse traditions and beliefs. El Greco's artistic style was distinct, characterized by elongated figures, intense colors, and a spiritual atmosphere. His works often depicted religious subjects, such as saints, martyrs, and biblical scenes, infused with a sense of drama and mysticism. 

Toledo's rich cultural and religious heritage provided El Greco with ample inspiration for his paintings. One of El Greco's most famous works, "The Burial of the Count of Orgaz," located in the Church of Santo Tomé in Toledo, exemplifies his unique style and mastery of light and color. The city of Toledo itself is often depicted in his paintings, with its iconic skyline and landmarks serving as backdrops to his religious narratives. Overall, Toledo offered El Greco a conducive environment to thrive as an artist, providing him with patronage, artistic freedom, cultural diversity, and spiritual inspiration—all of which contributed to his decision to make the city his home and establish his legacy as one of the greatest painters of the Spanish Renaissance. 

 The next element that attracts a visitor is the river Tagus (also known as ío Tajo in Spanish). This beautiful river has been the lifeline of Toledo since time immemorial, as Toledo is situated atop a rugged hill, this river provides the city with strategic advantages and serves as a barrier by naturally fortifying, throughout its history. During the ancient and medieval periods, this river provided transportation and helped economic growth and prosperity. This also supplies the drinking water and of course for all the crops and pretty flowers within the city walls! The river was probably the most important geographical feature which helped the landscape to inspire artists, poets, and writers. 







 The weather was crisp, and sky was perfect blue color, and the mood was quite festive. The city was gearing up for its annual Corpus Christi festival. A procession is taken out through the streets of Toledo - One of the most famous highlights is the Monstrance, a priceless work of craftsmanship in gold and silver dating from 1515 and weighing about 160 kilos. During the Corpus Christi procession in Toledo, the monstrance containing the consecrated Host is prominently displayed, often atop an ornate float or carried by clergy. 

The monstrance is a priceless work of craftsmanship, crafted from gold and silver with intricate detailing and embellishments. Wreaths, lanterns, and tapestries from the 16th/17th centuries are taken out and decorated all over the city. Overall, the monstrance plays a central and revered role in the Corpus Christi festival in Toledo, serving as a tangible manifestation of the city's rich religious and artistic heritage and inspiring profound spiritual devotion among worshippers and spectators alike. 

 The picturesque city has attracted many Filmmakers too! Some of the well-known movies are The Bridge of San Luis Rey, The Kingdom of Heaven, The Blind Sunflowers, Knight and Day, The Raven, and Doctor Who. Interestingly, Toledo is known for craftmanship in sword making and some renowned movies have used swords made in this city - Conan the Barbarian, The Lord of the Rings Trilogy, Excalibur, The Three Musketeers, Braveheart... 
Toledo's craftmanship in swords


 We had reached the very end of the city and so was the guided tour. We appreciated our guide for his thoroughness. We were so hungry, though full of eateries, most of them had a long wait time. We chose a Mediterranean place for lunch (one of the best foods so far in our vacation)! Before we left this ancient city, we made sure to purchase a few boxes of Marzipan for everyone back home - Toledo is the original home of Marzipan! 

The city is also known for the amazing porcelains and the swords of every artistic kind (most of the famous movies with notable swords are built in this city) - Gladiator, Lord of the Rings, Kingdom of Heaven, etc. 

Our day was coming to an end. Toledo definitely needs more than a day trip! We had to get back to the station on time - we took one of the loveliest and the most scenic walk ever, crossed the Alcántara bridge (which dates back to Roman antiquity) over the river Tagus- about 10 minutes from the city center to Toledo train station. We reached just in time to head out back to Madrid.

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