Monday, August 13, 2018

Unforgettable Glaciers in Alaska


As the Alaskan Railway started moving, I started reflecting how wonderfully the day passed swiftly and beautifully, in the true sense of words. I could see the same bustling of pretty fireweed, and the red and blueberries as anywhere else in Alaska. The evening sun was already on glaciers creating another level of magic than they already were. We were surrounded by waterfalls streaming joyfully under the bridges. I said adieu to the sleepy town of Whittier, gateway to the mesmerizing wilderness of Prince William Sound, a town of some 400 people, hustling and bustling with tourists.



 Let me start with the morning. As we boarded the train, the narrator started telling all trivia related to Anchorage as the train sped and moved past. A row of houses, each had a small plane in the yard. One in seven Alaskan, is a pilot and most of the times, that’s the only mode of transportation as Alaska is vast, remote and in wilderness.




Moose, moose…kids on the train shouted excitedly. I had the camera on hand with a 300 mm lens mounted and was determined to record all possible moments…yikes, missed it! But saw the animal though, enjoying the sun. The train advanced.
“Look to your right. Two trumpeter swans”. Nope, missed it again! Well, some things are better left for memory.

As the train took many turns in Turnagain bay, I continued documenting the unnamed peaks, the streams, mud flats, glacial lakes, berries, flowers and birds through my lens. Train reached on time at Whittier and Klondike Boat was waiting for us. It was already full of tourists from cruises and others who visited from lower 48 states, just like us. A new and clean vessel, with plenty of space on deck. Many started clicking using the ubiquitous selfie stick…

Narrator, seemingly very knowledgeable and experienced, started her commentary with a promise of showing 26 glaciers, as the vessel started meandering in the passage between Kenai and Chugach mountains. Weather was on our side, amazingly sunny. I moved to the front deck to get a better view of Whittier glacier and a view of some old beautiful buildings. Slowly, we moved away from shore and completely into the world of glaciers. Did I mention it was a gorgeous day, a first sunny day of our vacation and rain was not in sight. I was at awe looking at pristine white snow fields that extended beyond the blue glaciers as far as we could see.

Lunch was served. Salmon chowder and vegetarian chili with bread roll tasted divine. “Look at position 8, that looks like a whale”, announced the captain. People thronged to windows. Not sure if anyone did see, sure it wasn’t me! But I decided to stay back on deck and not to miss any of these nature’s splendor, which could be only once in my lifetime. You don’t get chances often – first it is far out from lower 48 and second, it’s expensive!

It was getting chilly. But I didn’t mind. The newly created forest of junipers looked magnificent with the golden rays of sun. The white birds were frolicking in group, making laps but staying in the same zone. Could see quite several small shipping boats – the is the salmon season. Five types of wild salmon are found in Alaska. They migrate to Alaska for breeding and die afterwards. Other wildlife survives on these nutrient rich dead salmons.
I mentioned tourists, but one can always see adventurers, try to discover unknown parts, despite of harsh climates. Thanks to Mr. Sherman who did the same thing! He was Type A personality and when his doctor advised to take a break, he boarded a ship full of brilliant scientists and engineers and explorers to make new inroads in the last frontiers, that we see today!

People had noticed me taking pictures standing at the same position, probably a little unusual as everyone was moving around all over to see vistas. When a group of strangers are together with the same goal, you soon develop a camaraderie. A lady came and made a request – will you please take a picture of us when we reach the glacier? Of course, I replied. When time came, everyone was excited, and, in the hullabaloo, I lost her…hoped she got her picture with husband.

Another elderly gentleman standing to the left, tapped on soldier- there’s a sea otter, if you are interested in your lens. Inside, my family shared the table with a retired pilot and his wife, who had come from Austin and we immediately bonded being from Texas. His wife is a traveler. I noticed she kept a little journal and took pictures. She finds a little something special about any place she visits and posts it on Facebook with pictures. She narrated how she got to see tiger in a National Park in India at the end of her trip and recorded a video.

The gorgeous day with turquoise water, valleys looking golden with sunshine, little islands, sea lions basking in sun, sea otters floating, upwards (that’s how they float always), the birds flocking and chartering their own path, felt so un-real except it was real.

Finally, we reached…. glacier up close…so amazingly beautiful…never in my life I saw something beautiful that close. Absolute solitude. The boat had stopped, and everyone was quiet for a few seconds looking at the bergs floating or the waterfall streaming down of the magnificent and mighty blue glaciers. A thud, a piece broke off the glacier creating a beautiful smoke. That also brought back to reality- glaciers are melting and climate is CHANGING.

The boat crew were super nice. They scooped some ice for the kids to touch. Brought out some Christmas, Hanukah, happy holidays or new year accessories. Later on, the visitors may use this moment to share with near and dear.

Boat took turn, time mattered most. Cruise ship, train, cars would be waiting to take people home. Time for warm cookies and say goodbye to this part of earth. We boarded back train again. The narrator told us of 1964 earthquake and other adventurers who have contributed in discovering and maintaining the wilderness. Turnagain bay was overlooking magnificent. It was almost evening in the bear country of midnight sun. She said, look on your left, I see two whales…they were in hundreds! Looked as if they were in synchronized swimming, enjoying the short summer in the vast expanse of glacial river!




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